Archive for the ‘Plant Care’ Category

Weeds, Weeds, Weeds!

Thursday, August 11th, 2011

Of course, this is our old friend, crabgrass. When we see crabgrass in a lawn that has been treated with a preventive control, all things being equal, we can usually find a secondary cause for its presence. For instance, in the photograph above the crabgrass is growing adjacent to an asphalt driveway. Why is that significant? Because crabgrass utilizes a form of photosynthesis that is more efficient as the weather gets hotter. As anyone who has made the mistake of walking on an asphalt driveway on a 90-degree day can tell you, they get hot. Really hot. That heat is retained by the asphalt and is dissipated into the surrounding soil. Thus, the area against the driveway has an artificially high soil temperature – which the crabgrass loves.

Crabgrass also will colonize areas that are under stress from disease. A classic example is when a lawn comes down with a case of Necrotic Ring Spot (aren’t plant pathologists clever?) Since the disease causes the death of roots, an area of bare soil will eventually show up, like this:

Granted, that’s a bit hard to see but that’s a crabgrass plant growing in the middle of a diseased area.

In fact, just about any factor that results in the reduction of the turf canopy exposing bare soil to sunlight will eventually lead to that area being infested with crabgrass.

So, you’ve called your friends at Lawn Dawg to let them know that there is a problem with crabgrass in your lawn- for which we thank you for the opportunity to solve the problem – now what should you expect?

We treat the crabgrass with an herbicide that is specific for the control of crabgrass – it is useless against just about every other weed. We will spray the crabgrass using a spot-spray method using a flat fan nozzle so that we cover the plant completely.

You can help us achieve satisfactory control by not watering or mowing for the remainder of the day of application.

After a couple of days, you should begin to see the first signs of control – a necrosis (dead or dying tissue) will begin to become apparent. The bright, highlighter yellow color of the crabgrass will be replaced first by a darker green, with a reddening apparent on the stems. Here is a photograph of those first signs of necrosis:

Crabgrass is a difficult weed to satisfactorily control. The stage of development of the plant, measured by the number of tillers that have emerged, has a great deal to do with it susceptibility to the herbicide. Indeed, a technician can treat two patches of crabgrass right next to one another equally and because one patch emerged before the other, one patch may be controlled completely while the other one shows no sign of control at all. That is why we say that satisfactory control may require multiple re-treatments.

Another issue that we deal with is the cruel fact that even though we have successfully controlled the crabgrass, it does not disappear as would a dandelion. Crabgrass is a very, very tough plant. It has a great deal of lining in its cells that are slow to decompose. When we assess lawns for new customers in the very early spring, we can determine the level of crabgrass infestation in the previous year by observing the number and distribution of crabgrass “skeletons” that remain even after months of winter.

So, what does properly controlled crabgrass look like? I guess it would look like something out of a textbook on turfgrass management written by Stephen King:

You’ll note the red tinge to the leaves and the lack of vigor. Also, you’ll notice that there are plants surrounding the one controlled that were relatively unaffected by the herbicide.

Research has shown that a properly applied preemergent crabgrass herbicide will control somewhere near 90 percent of the crabgrass seeds that germinate. That’s an important point of order.

The number of seeds of any species of weeds in a lawn is referred to as a seed bank. The balance of the seed bank will vary from lawn to lawn, indeed from one area of a lawn to another.

Let’s say that there are 1,000 crabgrass seeds that will germinate on a lawn that we have applied a preemergent control to in the spring. If properly applied, we will achieve the 90 percent control threshold and we will have 100 crabgrass plants. Now fast forward to the subsequent season. There are now fewer crabgrass seeds in the soil because there were fewer mature plants producing seed. As you can see, each season that you perform crabgrass control, the fewer crabgrass plants there will be in the lawn.

Written By: Bob Mann, Director of Training for Lawn Dawg, Environmentally Responsible Lawn Care.

Team Up to Clean Up – The Boys & Girls Club of Greater Sacramento

Wednesday, June 15th, 2011

Debug the West has officially begun. First stop, the Boys & Girls Club of Greater Sacramento!  On Friday, June 10, RISE teamed up with local landscaper, John Williams from Terra Care & Associates and local vector control specialist, Luz Maria Rodriguez from the Sacramento Yolo Mosquito and Vector Control District, to help members of the Boys & Girls Club freshen the club’s outdoor spaces, while educating them about how to be safe from potentially harmful pests in their environment.

Not only was this event fun, but it was also educational! Through several hands-on activities at the club, members were actively involved in digging, fertilizing, and planting dozens of native plant species, such as vines, shrubs, and flowers. Members of the club’s “Garden Club” honed in on their skills and gardening knowledge, and for other members of the club, it was their first time with a shovel and gloves.

In addition the gardening activity, Luz was onsite to host an interactive presentation on vector control. Mosquitoes thrive in the warm summer weather, and it is important that children understand that these little bugs can cause more than just annoying bites. Members of the club learned how to protect themselves and their homes from mosquitoes, while learning about the deadly West Nile virus, which in 2010, had 111 reported cases in California.

A big thanks goes out to Terra Care & Associates and the Sacramento Yolo Mosquito and Vector Control District for helping to facilitate this program—your knowledge and expertise was well-received by everyone in attendance.

Also, thank you to Felicia and Tyler from the Boys & Girls Club of Greater Sacramento for assisting with arrangements and all of the Boys & Girls Club members for their hard work!

Stay tuned for more updates on Debug The West!

Fertilizing Lawns in Spring

Monday, May 2nd, 2011

Dr. John Stier, environmental turfgrass extension specialist, professor and chair of the Dept. of Horticulture-University of Wisconsin, Madison.

Spring time always gets people excited about their lawns.  Store shelves are stocked with lawn care products and advertisements are on TV and in the Sunday paper for grasses, mowers, and fertilizers.  Our lawns need three things to grow well: mowing, watering, and fertilizing.

Warm season grasses in the southern part of the United States often need some fertilizer as they begin to green up in the early spring while cool season grasses grown in the northern United States aren’t usually fertilized until about a month or so after mowing begins. This is because cool season grasses can take advantage of nitrogen naturally released from the soil.

Turfgrasses need more than a dozen nutrients to grow, most of which are plentiful in soil.  The three nutrients which are most likely deficient in soils are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, abbreviated as N-P-K on fertilizer labels.  The three numbers on the fertilizer label represent the percentage of N, P, and K in the fertilizer formula.  The numbers never add to 100 because the nutrients come in different forms which contain other elements.  For example, the weight of urea is 46 percent from N, 29 percent oxygen, 19 percent carbon, and 6 percent hydrogen: the label will show 46-0-0 because it doesn’t contain P or K.

While N is the nutrient that lawns are usually missing, complete fertilizers contain N, P, and K. Take a soil test every three to five years to determine what nutrients your lawn is missing.  Some turfgrasses, like centipede grass and tall fescue, may only need one or two lbs N per 1,000 square feet each year, while most other grasses will need more. Your university extension service will have guidelines for the grasses specific to your area.

Most fertilizers sold to homeowners contain a mixture of the two types of nitrogen, readily available and controlled release, because both types have different benefits. Readily available nitrogen gets into the plant fast while controlled release forms of nitrogen slowly release the N over many weeks.  The usual rate of N is 1 pound per 1,000 square feet.  Most fertilizer bags contain a recommended setting for different fertilizer spreaders to apply either a high rate or a low rate.  The high rate will usually supply 1 pound N per 1,000 square feet, and the low rate will supply about 0.5 pound N per 1,000 square feet.

Also read and follow label instructions when applying fertilizer. Make sure to sweep up any fertilizer from pavement after application, and don’t apply directly to water.  Fertilizer should not be applied when the soil is saturated or when a big rainstorm is expected.  Fertilizer will work best when lightly watered after application.

Watering and Aerating Your Lawn

Friday, April 29th, 2011

Cathie Lavis is a professor of horticulture at Kansas State University. Her expertise includes landscaping, arboriculture, irrigation, and landscape contracting. She provides insight for homeowners and gardeners on plant care, selection, and more.

Water and air are necessitates of life, not only to you and me, but also to the grass that grows in our lawns. Keeping your lawn well aerated and properly watered is key to its ability to thrive. Here are a few tips and insights to help you help your lawn catch its breath and quench its thirst.

Aeration

Lawns by their very nature invite foot traffic; however, with foot traffic comes the potential for soil compaction. The more traffic, the more compaction – in other words, a football field probably suffers from soil compaction more than your front yard. Plant roots need oxygen but when the soil particles in the top few inches become compacted less oxygen can enter and less carbon dioxide escapes. As a result, grass will thin out while many weeds actually thrive causing even more stress on the turf plants for moisture, nutrients and oxygen.

To solve the problem, special machines called aerifiers can be used to relieve soil compaction. These machines have tines that are approximately 1/2” in diameter that penetrate the soil to a depth of 3-4 inches removing soil cores and leaving small holes. The small soil plugs lay on the soil surface and breakdown rapidly contributing organic matter. The small holes allow oxygen to move through the soil while carbon dioxide escapes. Root growth around these holes is enhanced and plants are more vigorous. The frequency of soil aerification is dependent upon the amount of foot traffic and the soil texture of the site. Aerification should be performed when the grass is actively growing, because this allows the roots to fill the holes and the turf recovers faster.

Watering your lawn

Proper watering is critical to survival and aesthetic appeal of lawn grass; the frequency and quantity is influenced by many factors: soil texture, turf type, geography and, of course, environmental factors.

With the keen awareness of water scarcity, proper watering is critical. The soil should be watered to a depth of 4- to 6-inches, but soil type will influence how much water is needed to reach this depth. Generally, sandy soil requires one-half inch of water to achieve the desired wetting depth, a nice loamy soil typically requires three-quarters of an inch of water, and a heavy clay soil requires at least an inch of water.

The rate at which the water is absorbed decreases with a heavier clay soil. Therefore, water may run off before the proper watering depth is reached on a heavy clay soil so cycle and soaking is the best method of watering. In order to determine the actual amount of water a sprinkler puts out requires this simple check:

  • Set out 4 to 6 empty cans in a straight line, evenly spaced going away from the sprinkler with the last can at the edge of the sprinkler throw.
  • Run the sprinkler for a set time, perhaps 15-30 minutes. Measure the amount of water obtained.
  • Now run the sprinkler long enough to get 1-inch of water but not until water runoffs. If the soil is heavy and water runoff occurs, stop the sprinkler; allow the water to soak in for at least 30 minutes than begin watering again.

In summary, apply water to a depth of 4-6 inches, avoiding light frequent applications. It is best to water early in the morning when the water pressure is best and the water is evaporated off the foliage to avoid diseases.

Show Me Some ID: Identifying Weeds in your Lawn

Thursday, April 21st, 2011

A commonly repeated definition of a “weed” is “an unwanted plant.” This broad definition can make the process of identifying – and controlling – weeds a bit daunting. But understanding a few common weeds, and particularly learning about those that may pose health or wellness dangers, is an important first step toward maintaining safe, healthy lawns and other outdoor spaces.

Here are a few common weeds that you will want to be aware of:

Poison Ivy, Poison Oak, Poison Sumac

Problem: The tissues of these plants contain poisonous oil that causes allergic reactions to more than half of the U.S. population.

Appearance: Poison Ivy and poison oak normally have three leaflets, which are groups of leaves all on the same small stem. As a result, many people use the saying “Leaves of three, let it be” when trying to identify these plants.  Poison sumac has seven to 13 leaves on a branch.

Control: Poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac can be controlled with herbicides. You may have to treat the weeds with herbicides several times, as these plants are very persistent. DO NOT try to get rid of these with a lawn mower or weed wacker as both of those tools will simply spread the weed and will likely end up on your skin in the process.

Image:  poison ivy, oak, and sumac         

Ragweed

Problem: This weed produces a large amount of pollen that causes seasonal allergies for many Americans.

Appearance: The leaves of ragweed look fern-like, green, and hairy. The flowers are yellow, long, and normally found in clusters at the top of the plant.

Control: Ragweed can be treated with broadleaf herbicides. Mowing and cultivating open flower beds can also help control ragweed.

Image: ragweed

 Crabgrass

Problem: This common weed disrupts the growth and appearance of lawns.

Appearance: Crabgrass looks more like a plant than grass. Its leaves can resemble the legs of a crab, hence the name crabgrass. The flowers have small node-like heads and grow at ends of stems or in clusters along the length of the stem. If left unmowed, this weed can grow as tall as six inches.

Control: Crabgrass can be controlled with herbicides. Mowing your lawn at optimum heights can also reduce its germination and establishment.

Image: smooth crabgrass

 For more help identifying your unknown weed, visit Better Homes and Gardens to view their Weed Identification Guide.

National Lawn Care Month – What can your lawn do for you?

Tuesday, April 5th, 2011

April is National Lawn Care Month and that means it is time for you to get outside and starting working on your lawn and garden.  A lawn can do more than just be a source of pride for American homeowners. A lush, green lawn can reduce allergies, boost real estate value and lower the amount of dust and soil runoff in a community. Here’s a quick look at how your lawn can go to work for you:

  • Reducing allergies

Of all Americans who are allergic to pollen-producing plants, 75 percent are allergic to ragweed. While a single ragweed plant may only live for one season, it produces up to one billion pollen grains during that time. More than one half of the U.S. population is allergic to noxious weeds such as poison ivy, poison oak and poison sumac. Keeping the growth of these weeds at bay keeps everyone feeling better, too.

  • Boosting your real estate value

Nothing beats a first impression. When prospective buyers are searching for a new home, well-landscaped lawns and nearby parks are important factors.

“Potential buyers can be immediately swayed by an unsightly yard, leaving them to wonder if the lack of care and attention to the lawn has been carried to the inside of the house,” said Gray Mattern, Realtor in St. Petersburg, Fla. “If the buyer doesn’t get past the negative first impression, he or she may decide to bypass the home completely without looking at the interior. In this buyer’s market, it’s important to appeal to a wide range of prospective buyers.”

  • Reducing dust and soil erosion

Healthy grass holds soil in place and prevents runoff from being washed into lakes, rivers and streams. The University of Minnesota released results of a research study showing a lawn that is not fertilized actually has more runoff than a lawn that is properly fertilized, due to the increased health of the grass.

“Proper lawn care practices will be rewarded by an aesthetically pleasing property and will result in a variety of environmental benefits,” explained Cathie Lavis, horticulture professor, Kansas State University, Manhattan, Kan. “A key factor to success is selecting the right grass variety for both your region and particular site conditions.”

Choose Right and Use Right

Two elements of good lawn health are proper pesticide and fertilizer use. A properly fertilized, healthy lawn helps prevent weeds, while pesticides control weed populations already present or before they emerge. Proper pesticide use also keeps grubs and insects at bay.

When selecting and using pesticides and fertilizers, the product label directions must be followed to make sure the product works properly and is used in a safe and environmentally sound way. Product labels specify the amount of product that should be applied, how much is needed for your treatment conditions, and how to safely apply and store products.

Celebrate!

So, what are you going to do to celebrate the month? Post pictures of your hard-working lawn on our Facebook page, send us a tweet or post a comment here to share your tips for maintaining outdoor spaces. We’ll be offering tips from our resident experts through Twitter, Facebook, and this blog all the month. Check back frequently to get some helpful hints!

Fertilizer and Water Quality

Wednesday, February 16th, 2011

Most homeowners are becoming increasingly more aware of how their actions in regards to home maintenance, lawn care and more influence the environment around them. This is good news – we all need to play our part in protecting the world in which we live. However, it’ also important to have the full story – and not rely on “myths” – when making these decisions.

For example, some homeowners have stopped fertilizing their lawns due to a belief that fertilizer use increases phosphorus run-off into groundwater and other water resources. However, recent research by the University of Minnesota demonstrates that properly fertilized lawns have healthy root systems, which do a better job of holding soil in place than the root systems of non-fertilized lawns. As a result, an unfertilized lawn actually has more phosphorus run-off than a lawn that is fertilized. This holds true even when fertilizers with large amounts of phosphorus are used.

An unfertilized lawn loses its density and exposes soil, which leads to erosion and loss of nutrients. A fertilized lawn holds the soil in place, meaning less loss of nutrients and less phosphorus run-off.

Brian Horgan, Ph.D., associate professor at the University of Minnesota and extension turfgrass specialist said, “If you don’t fertilize your lawn thinking you’re doing better, you’re actually doing a lot more harm than if you properly fertilize your turf.”

Interested in learning more about the University of Minnesota experiment? Check out this video, as Dr. Horgan gives more details about his research.

Day 4: Clean!

Thursday, October 7th, 2010

Today is Thursday, and that means it is time to clean your home — not the deep cleaning you instantly dread, but putting away and throwing away clutter.

Pests need three things to survive: food, water, and a place to live. If you can control access to food around the home and eliminate standing water, all you need to do is focus on eliminating pest’s places to hide.  Pests love the areas of your home and yard that you rarely visit or think about. That means the dark corner of the basement where the old Christmas decorations are stored, the spot in the attic that hasn’t seen daylight or had fresh air in years, under the kitchen sink, behind the refrigerator or in the tool shed. Cleaning up the clutter in and around your home is integral to solving pest problems, protecting you and your family from the adverse health effects pests can have, and protecting your home’s value from the physical damage they can cause.

Some common indoor clutter problems are:

  • Half-eaten meals – Many kids, and even adults, have a habit of leaving crumbs behind when preparing and eating meals. Pests look at those crumbs as a feast and will come back for more if they find one good meal.  One nugget of dog kibble under the refrigerator can be a banquet for pests.
  • Plates in the bedroom – Once children and teens realize they can bring plates and snacks to their bedrooms, they’ll never want to eat in the kitchen again. It’s important to talk to them about how bringing food to their room can also invite pests.

Some common outside clutter problems are:

  • Piled-up trash and recycling – You know that pile of recycling and castoffs in your garage or shed that you keep adding to? Well, that pile could become a mansion for mice and other rodents.
  • Garden tools – Do you keep your lawn mower, yard rake, and other tools stacked up against the side of the house? Cleaning up that clutter can not only eliminate a pest’s highway into your home but also a place for them to hide.

Watch Janet’s video of the day for more tips on cleaning your home.

If you’ve missed any of the earlier steps in this week’s guide to inspecting and protecting your home, view the previous blogs and watch some of Janet Hurley’s videos describing where you can look around your home and yard for pest problems.

Day 2: Study and Prepare

Tuesday, October 5th, 2010

After investigating your home for potential pest problems, this next step is all about arming yourself with knowledge about the problems you have identified.  Here, you will want to study the problems you found while investigating and prepare to solve those problems. .

By studying and preparing, you’re not only learning about the pests in your home, but also about the damage they can cause to your health and home.

What type of pests are they? What are these specific pests attracted to in your home?  How did they get in? How do you get rid of them?  What are your options? You will want to ask and answer these questions in order to prepare to solve your pest problems.  This means finding brochures and information from your local lawn and garden store and even doing your own research on the Internet.

There are several resources available at our website, www.debugthemyths.com, that will aid in the studying and preparation step.  On the website, you can look up answers to your pest problems, ask questions of professionals, and even submit pictures and descriptions of unknown pests in your home for an expert to identify. Another great resource for learning about particular pest problems is www.extension.org.

The research you do during the study and prepare stage is critical to finding the answers to your pesky pest problems so you can find an elimination solution that is suitable for you. Watch Janet’s video on studying and preparing here.

Live in an apartment? Container gardening is easy and rewarding.

Friday, August 20th, 2010

Cathie Lavis is a professor of horticulture at Kansas State University. Her expertise includes landscaping, arboriculture, irrigation, and landscape contracting. She provides insight for homeowners and gardeners on plant care, selection, and more.

You do not have to walk the historic narrow streets of Orvieto, Italy to realize flowers and plants create romance, ambiance and natural atmosphere.

Just one striking plant in a single pot can brighten a corner of your balcony or reward you with fresh tomatoes or herbs. While thoughtfully stylized containers of plants or cascading mixtures of flowers and foliage can have a real impact too.

Selecting the right container is important. Consider the size, location, style and, of course, what you want to grow when making your choice. Both the container and plant must suit the site, so aim to bring together a style that blends with your home, outdoor furniture and the surfaces around the plant (whether they are concrete, gravel, decking or brick).

Terracotta weathers nicely and harmonizes well in almost any setting. Terracotta keeps plant roots a little cooler than plastic containers; however plastic is lighter and easier to move. Plastic withstands harsh winter weather while terracotta can crack when temperatures get too cold. On the opposite end, inexpensive plastic pots may break down under UV light; however they can hold moisture better than terracotta. When it comes to wooden containers, make sure you treat it with a waterproof preservative before planting. Glazed ceramic makes ideal containers, but be sure they have drain holes. Regardless of the material, drain holes are critical. In order to avoid soil loss through the holes, line the bottom of any pot with a sheet or two of newspaper.

When planting, use a soilless potting media purchased from a reputable plant nursery. Watering will depend upon the size of the container, type of plant, location of the container (full sun versus shade) and the time of year. You can use your index finger to feel for moisture in the soil so you know when it’s getting thirsty. A rule of thumb is if the top 1” is dry, it is time to water. Water thoroughly, that is, so water runs out the bottom of the pot. This will allow salt to move out of the soil profile.

There is an enormous range of plants that can be grown in containers, from annual bedding plants and foliage to small vegetables and trees. Containers allow you to grow and enjoy a variety of plants in just about any location.