Archive for January, 2010

IPM 101: Pest Management in Schools

Friday, January 22nd, 2010

Dr. John Stier, Environmental Turfgrass Extension Specialist, Professor and Chair of the Dept. Horticulture-University of Wisconsin, Madison.

As schools begin their “spring” semesters (in unusually cold temperatures in many places), administrations will begin preparing for warmer weather and the many bugs and creatures that come to life with it. Many schools use Integrated Pest Management to protect students from pests – but what does IPM really involve?

Integrated Pest Management (IPM) uses a combination of cultural, biological and chemical approaches to avoid or manage pest problems. Good IPM relies on “best management practices” (BMPs) as the basis for pest management. These include things like keeping tall vegetation away from buildings to help avoid problems with rodents and insects inside the buildings and properly fertilizing lawns and sports turf areas to minimize weed problems. A common misunderstanding is that IPM means “no pesticides.” In fact, IPM allows for well judged use of pesticides when used jointly with best management practices and biological methods (like beneficial insects).

Understandably, effective control of pests is particularly important to schools because large numbers of children are in one location for long periods of time making their potential interaction with pests like bees and poison ivy and pest-control compounds of greater concern. Many states (e.g., Illinois) have, or are considering, mandated IPM in schools to help ensure the safest possible environments for children. The difficulty with requiring IPM is that IPM is a set of practices developed for a specific situation. As such, it requires people with the proper expertise to identify existing and potential pest problems and develop the best approach to deal with the issues.

Most school building and grounds managers are hired for their expertise in mechanical systems (e.g., heating, air conditioning, etc.), rather than for their understanding of biology and pest management.  In Wisconsin, we developed training on pest management for school superintendents and buildings and ground managers. More than 90 percent of the Wisconsin public school districts participated in the program during its first several years.  Our on-site visits  revealed the importance of proper training as many school personnel require specific pest identification and management training to effectively use IPM.  We also found school personnel were willing, and often enthusiastic, to learn about pest biology and control.

The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), along with many state and university programs, have or are developing procedures to inform parents and assist schools with incorporating IPM principles and practices into their school management systems.  Additional information, with links to various state programs and non-governmental organizations such as the National IPM Institute, is available here.

Read more about IPM, especially in schools, on the Work & Play page.

What about pruning your trees and shrubs during winter?

Wednesday, January 20th, 2010

Cathie Lavis is a professor of horticulture at Kansas State University. Her expertise includes landscaping, arboriculture, irrigation, and landscape contracting. She provides insight for homeowners and gardeners on plant care, selection, and more.

Although the removal of dead, damaged or diseased branches and stems can be done anytime during the year, there are better times than others.

Don’t brave the cold with your pruning shears in hand. When the temperature is below freezing, the possibility for tissue damage increases. This is because cold, dry wind along with drier soils and plant tissues can increase the effect of the cold. Pruning during the winter may result in damage near the pruning cut. Exposed pruning cuts make the plant tissue more susceptible to damage as well.

I know from experience! I have pruned Junipers during winter only to find dried, brown foliage surrounding the cut in late spring. This is most likely a result of tissue dehydration caused by winter winds. In moderate winter climates, the rules for pruning change considerably. Plants differ considerably in their cold tolerance so it is important to know the type of plants you have in your landscape. The real trick is knowing when severe freezing is over. You might want to keep a journal so you can track the weather conditions in your own area.

While more research is needed to confirm the ideal time for pruning, some studies suggest summer pruning results in less stem decay than dormant-season pruning. On the flipside, little or no sprouting occurs on a dormant plant (no leaves on deciduous plants). Research has also found that pruning wounds close more rapidly when pruning is performed just before buds swell and new leaves appear in early spring. An additional consideration is that during late winter and early spring, plants are coming out of dormancy and energy reserves are low so it is best to avoid excessive pruning until the leaves have hardened and become dark green.

Here are a couple general pruning guidelines to follow when it comes to pruning your trees and shrubs:

1) Light pruning or removal of less than 10% of the foliage can be done on most species just about any time.

2) Most woody plants when subject to moderate (10% of foliage removed) or heavy (more than 25% of foliage removed) pruning during early spring will respond with excessive sprouting so if moderate pruning needs to be done, wait until after the leaves are fully expanded and dark green, usually by late spring to early summer.

Ultimately, timing of pruning will depend on the tree or shrub species, the results desired, the condition of the plant, and if there is any possibility of spreading disease and increasing insect damage.

Protecting Plants in the Ice and Snow

Thursday, January 14th, 2010

Cathie Lavis is a professor of horticulture at Kansas State University. Her expertise includes landscaping, arboriculture, irrigation, and landscape contracting. She provides insight for homeowners and gardeners on plant care, selection, and more.

Although there really is little we can do to safeguard plants from harsh weather, proper maintenance throughout the growing season will certainly help protect plants from some of the damage they may receive from a devastating ice or snowstorms.

Ice

Ice is heavy. Depending on the thickness, it can add up as much as 25 percent of the weight of the branch. If wind accompanies the storm, the chance of damage or loss of branches increases exponentially.

Do not attempt to remove the ice; instead, allow it to melt. Attempts to remove heavy snow or ice are likely to cause even greater damage. Damaged branches may be more susceptible to future insect and disease problems. (Be sure to keep a watchful eye during the spring months for early detection of these potential problems.)

Snow

Wet, heavy snow can be a potential problem, particularly to evergreens or hedges. Many plants do not have strong stems that allow them to withstand the weight of snow, particularly plants that have been sheared as the flat tops do not shed the snow allowing it to pile up. Sheared boxwoods or yews are especially prone to snow-load damage. Heavy snow or ice will force the branches downward and leave gaping holes in the shrub that might be permanent. In many cases, a broom will work to remove the snow before it becomes heavy enough to weigh down the branches and cause permanent damage.

Support and Protect

When planting trees, shrubs, or perennials, staking or providing other means of support is important as they can be uprooted under the heavy weight of snow or ice. Small shrubs can be protected with wooden crates or wooden tepees made from strong, yet pliable tree branches. Smaller trees, particularly evergreens, can be tied with a cord wrapped around the entire plant, which gives branches support from each other.

In the future, you should avoid planting any type of fast growing trees with poor structure. Fast growing trees such as Chinese elm, Siberian elm, Poplar, Silver maple, Birch, Willow and Japanese maple have weakly developed wood, and, these trees generally develop V-shaped crotches. These poorly structured trees tend to have more damage than trees with strong central leaders, such as, pine, spruce, gingko, and sweet gum during winter’s harsh conditions.

New Year’s Resolution – Debug Your Home

Thursday, January 7th, 2010

As we welcome in the New Year, consider making a resolution to take actions that will help keep bugs outside and your family safe inside. A few simple steps can help keep pests under control and reduce their motivation for making themselves at home in yours. Check out these simple steps from the National Pest Management Association that help prevent pest problems:

1)      Seal cracks and holes on the outside of your home that offer easy access to many pests

2)      Keep branches well-trimmed so they don’t reach too close to the home

3)      Make sure basements, attics, and crawl spaces are well-ventilated and dry

4)      Store garbage in a sealed container and dispose of it regularly